| Fall factor 0.3 ( 0.6 M fall / 2 M rope ) | Fall factor 1 ( 2 M fall / 2 M rope ) | Fall factor 2 ( 6 M fall / 3 M rope ) |
Three Sigma The Tree Sigma Rating system is a method of Statistical Quality Control (SQC) used to describe, analyze and control the rated strengths of products developed by DMM. For each batch produced a statistically representative sample is taken and tested to destruction in accordance with either the relevant European Standard for that product and/or DMM's own approved internal Quality Assurance System. From the data obtained from destruction testing, the average (or mean) and sample standard deviation (which is a measure of Variance based upon the results obtained) is calculated. 3ó is 3 x the sample standard deviation. When 3ó is deducted from the mean result obtained, we can predict the spread of results which would be obtained if we were to destroy the entire batch. |
UIAA Standards The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) began the process of formulating standards for Climbing and Mountaineering equipment over 3 decades ago. With the advent of the PPE ( Personal Protective Equipment Directive 89/686/EEC) in 1989 it appeared that UIAA standards no longer had any relevance, however the UIAA has continued to monitor and shadow EN standards and is currently formulating a standard for belay devices which will in due course be adopted as an EN standard. |
CE - EN standard
In recent years the standards committees for the various member states of the European Union have been attempting to converge the standards and specifications for a wide range of applications. In the respect of equipment used for mountaineering and related activities this has resulted in the publication of a series of EuroNorms (EN standards) which have updated and replaced the previous national standards. As an example the previous BS (British Standard), DIN (German Standard) and AFNOR (French standard) for carabiners is now covered by EuroNorm EN12275. On successful completion a CE Type Examination Certificate is awarded to the manufacturer by the notified body authorising the inclusion of the CE mark on the product. |
KN ( KiloNewtons )
Kilonewtons or kilograms ? The rated strengths of nearly all vertical and climbing products are given in kilonewtons ( kN ) as opposed to kilograms ( kg ). This is the preferred method in accordance with CE and UIAA legislation A newton is a measure of a force as opposed to a mass. ( 1 NEWTON IS EQUIVALENT TO THE FORCE THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE EXERTED ON A 1 kg MASS TO ACCELERATE AT A RATE OF 1 m/s ) |